Internal Fire Museum of Power

A friend removed this quality item from an engine which this and other bodges had rendered almost beyond recovery. Three years and many £££s, and parts, later its going back together. As you can see the correct material has been backed up by skilled use of the correct tools and the article blued to aid fitting

cheers
Roland

I'm impressed by the way an angle-grinder gives that precision non-slip surface, so important to keeping the key in place!

Roland,
Seen it! Some months ago I added it to my image list for a forthcoming future SEM article on "bodges"! . Even worse - someone saw two roofing nails used to hold a flywheel on.

Went to Bristol Classic Car show today and met a former apprentice fitter from where I once worked. He was relating to me how it was impressed upon us that only 'properly' was good enough and went on to talk about the correct fitting of gib head keys, engineers' blue, flat scrapers etc etc. If he was a SEM reader he would have appreciated my article.

Photos of bodgery seen on stationary engines? Bring 'em on.....with a caption

Eric

I thought you would have done
Arguable whether that mess would be more or less dangerous than a flywheel retained by a flat key with a "retaining" bolt...

cheers
Roland

My Lister A pulley was held on with this, looks like a big Farriers nail.

I remember seeing a pulley wheel held on with a roofing bolt hammered up the key way a few years ago.

No pictures, but I can recall a car which must have suffered from brake squeal, the owners solution was to cut three radial slots in each of the brake shoes (not the lining) therby completely weakening them. fantastic.

Here's one to add to the list.
I have been putting a dissasembled MF35 Tractor back together for the last week or so, and thought I was getting on too well, when I discovered the rear trailer hitch plate that is held on with 4 bolts underneath the rear axel, was only being held on by two!! Nothing new in that discovery as these sometimes worked loose or sheared when abused. what did suprise me was that someone had tried to weld the mild steel plate to the cast iron axel on the side the two bolts were missing!!! Needless to say when the two remaining bolts were removed, the plate fell off, uncovering the fact that the weld which was slightly better than 'pigion manure' had not taken to the casting at all. I dread to think what would of happened if anyone had towed anything with this setup.
Un-detered I set about making a drilling jig to drill out the broken off studs, and started to drill. Two blunted drills later I investigated as to why couldn't get anywhere, only to find under the rust in each hole were broken off drills or Esi-outs (not sure which) embeded in the studs.
So back to the drawing board.


Paul.

Paul,

find out the diameter of the offending item and then make a cutter with a hollow middle out of silver steel to then drill it out , sharp tap of the core to break it.
Drill to a known thread size the hole then make a threaded plug to drill and tap back to original size.

Martin P

p.s. see you Sunday

if used carefully a gas axe will act preferentially on the steel, (but drain the axle first

hth
Roland

Hi,
Invert tractor rear end, build up studs with "Blobs" of weld, ( mig or arc) till they can be gripped and unscrewed.
Regards,
Harry

Martin,
You have just prooved you 'can' teach an old dog new trick's, that's an idea that I had not considered and may be possible if the person that drilled the original hole, did so "straight", as they used a drill size that doesn't allow for any wandering!
Roland and Harry,
I have tried these methods many times in the past with various jobs, with a good success rate and would have a go with either or both if required on this project, BUT.... someone has also broken the casting where the Check Chain assembley fits, trying to take out the studs that hold the check chain on!! So whilst not another bodge as such, maybe in-experience instead
Whilst I or we may be able to find a way around this particular problem, economics and time step in and say get another casting as these are common tractors and one is available from a friend.
I am sure that if these problems were encountered on a very old and or rare Engine or Machine with no chance of finding spare parts, then these methods suggested would be very much considered.
Great input gentlemen, this is what forums for me, are all about, learning from each other.
Thank's for your help.
Regards

Paul.

PS
If you are reading Eric, I haven't forgotten

Paul,

Surely the name of the game is to restore the complete exhibit with all original parts, taking another casting from another exhibit means youve given up the challenge

Martin P

Martin,
This is still a workhorse not a restoration, and having spent many years carrying out such jobs, I feel I dont need the challenge I am not taking the parts from another exhibit, just using parts from a dismantled wreck. I just need to finnish it as soon as poss, time being more important. My challenges remain with the engines I have yet to finnish

Paul.

Look forward to seeing you and Mr H on Sunday

Paul,
I am reading - and neither have I....!
E