Internal Fire Museum of Power

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:40 am 
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Hi All,
As some of u may be aware from my various posts in the 'Help Wanted' section, I have recently restored a 2HP Petter M. Now that the engine is finished I have put together a full restoration thread with photographs documenting the project. For those interested, this can be found at the following URL:

http://www.stationary-engine.net/forum/ ... hp?t=25311

I would just like to thank all on this forum that have helped me with this restoration by responding to my numerous questions and queries - particularly Roland Craven for sharing his expert and extensive Petter knowledge. You're help is much appreciated.

Hope you find it of interest.

Cheers,

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:18 pm 
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Kev
Martin PAF's comment made me grasp that the weak fire is always as the governor cuts in. I suggest therefore that you try adjusting the length of the throttle rod by a turn or two either way.
The whole governor throttle system can become very worn and need total reconstruction; true bellmouthed collar, new shoe and pin, bush pivots, new weight pivots etc. etc.

Your pics show what looks like a plug cap with inbuilt resistance. There are bad for magnetos - throw it away please.

cheers
Roland


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:26 pm 
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crapscatter wrote:
Your pics show what looks like a plug cap with inbuilt resistance. There are bad for magnetos - throw it away please.

cheers
Roland



Roland, In later pictures it has been replaced with a brass spade connector.

Cheers Steve


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:01 pm 
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crapscatter wrote:
Kev
Martin PAF's comment made me grasp that the weak fire is always as the governor cuts in. I suggest therefore that you try adjusting the length of the throttle rod by a turn or two either way.
The whole governor throttle system can become very worn and need total reconstruction; true bellmouthed collar, new shoe and pin, bush pivots, new weight pivots etc. etc.

Your pics show what looks like a plug cap with inbuilt resistance. There are bad for magnetos - throw it away please.

cheers
Roland


Roland - I would appreciate your thoughts on my most recent post in the thread below (apologies different forum!) relating to the throttle linkage and governor if you wouldn't mind:

http://www.stationary-engine.net/forum/ ... post202263

Regards,

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:38 am 
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My thoughts are that a non-original and ugly bodge is a poor substitute for resolving any problems with the governor and or its linkage, though naturally it is your choice.
I'd like to know if my suggestion of adjusting the link rod length makes any difference. I think lengthening two turns might do the trick.

cheers
Roland


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:29 am 
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Thanks Roland. Unfortunately thr throttle link rod on my engine is a fixed length rod with bends in each end! Hence I cannot adjust its length! Not sure if this is original, or a later replacement rod! Is there any other means of adjustment regarding this?

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:45 am 
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There are two types. No means of adjustment on that one. If you can squeeze a small light spring in so as to pull the brass carb lever up (closed) that would prove whether you have a problem in that area.
Please can you post a good close-up showing the governor and throttle and their linkages.

hth
Roland


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:30 pm 
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Roland,

I am at work at the minute, but have managed to dig out these photographs which are cropped and englarged (so quality isn't great) that show the governor and throttle linkage on my engine. As you probably know, the 2hp Appletop Petter has a different governor linkage to the Pear Top engines of the same size. The throttle link rod is orientated vertically rather than horizontally as with the Pear Top M Types.

Showing end of butterfly spindle:
Image

Should governor control rod:
Image


Hopefully these photo's are clear enough for you to see the linkage arrangement.

I have tried fitting a spring to gently pull the throttle (butterfly) upwards towards the closed position, but this didn't really help. The engine seemed to run very fast with the engine firing regularly and misfiring almost every 3 or 4 seconds - to the point of having flames projecting out of the 2' long exhaust pipe!

Cheers,

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 4:55 pm 
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I think that rules out wear in the linkages. The things you describe indicate either weak mixture, late firing, or weak spark (leading to slow flame-spread).
You may recall that weak mixture was my first suggestion. Try richening it and if you think it runs to fast try removing one governor spring. It is rated at 1000rpm and the springs were set for that speed when new. Old springs can only get weaker and thus reduce the rpm.
If you think the throttle is not closing properly then remove both springs and manually check that the butterfly is closed when the weights are fully out.

I think I can see the start line so will shortly complete a full lap :)

Roland


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:06 am 
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BTW the difference in linkages is not the hopper shape but the main lubrication system. Nor is it consistent around the changeover point.

ttfn
Roland


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:20 pm 
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crapscatter wrote:
I think that rules out wear in the linkages. The things you describe indicate either weak mixture, late firing, or weak spark (leading to slow flame-spread).
You may recall that weak mixture was my first suggestion. Try richening it and if you think it runs to fast try removing one governor spring. It is rated at 1000rpm and the springs were set for that speed when new. Old springs can only get weaker and thus reduce the rpm.
If you think the throttle is not closing properly then remove both springs and manually check that the butterfly is closed when the weights are fully out.

I think I can see the start line so will shortly complete a full lap :)

Roland


Thanks Roland - I really appreciate your help, and patience also with the endless questions I have posted. I am seriously indebted to you in terms of the time you have spent answer my relentless queries. I have learnt alot from you that's for sure.

I will action and check everything you have mentioned above, run the engine again and keep you posted on the results (assuming I aren't banged up for antisocial behaviour regarding the noisey running of the engine in the middle of a built-up area!!! The engine shakes my neighbours bungalow when it is running so I am told - I think she was dramatising the situation personally!!!).

Cheers,

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:11 pm 
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Had the engine out today, and traced the source of the misfiring to a worn throttle linkage. As you can see in the video below (apologies for the poor quality, it was getting dark when i took it this afternoon), taking the play out of the linkage with my finger makes the engine run much better as it stops the butterfly moving back and forth of it's own free will on the worn linkage joints.

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acCveAY-Au4

Next job is to make up some bushes to take the play out of the connections where the butterfly spindle connects to the throttle rod, and the governor arm and connects to the throttle rod. Alternatively I may re-fabricating the throttle rod in a slightly larger size rod to better fit the worn holes.

Thanks to all that have offered advice to help me sort this problem out - it is much appreciated

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:58 pm 
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Here are a few photographs of my completed engine mounted on the replica Petter trolley I have made for it:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Here is a link to a video of the engine running at it's first rally (Langley Daffodil Day 2012, near Loddon, Norfolk):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDyNuK-Gasg&feature=youtu.be

Thanks to all that have helped me get the engine running so well. I'm really pleased with it, and how the trolley has turned out.

I would also like to thank Andy Savage (Old Thirsty) for his expert fabrication skills with making me a set of trolley wheels to my specification. I think you will all agree thay look spot on.

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Kevin
Lowestoft, Suffolk


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