Internal Fire Museum of Power

Mark,

thanks for the education.

Matt,

Will be nice to see, some people have all the luck!

Cheers Steve

Thank you all for your contributions gentlemen, hopefully it will be out and about next season! Steve, I may have something of interest to you... I'll PM you.

Hi, Matt, Hi, Steve. Well, I'll be bothered! It does look like mine except the port I'm using as the carb port is inclined at 45° and the other (about 1.5" and not inclined) I'm assuming is the exhaust. Am I wrong?
Matt you said you have 3 base fixing screws, I have 4 and the cylinder casting was not machined to allow the use of hex bolts so I've bought socket screws for them, plus studs on the head with brass nuts.
I don't have a magneto housing and I had to machine the flange to pass over the boss on the crankcase. The crankcase is sealed by an ali plate held in place by 8 6 BA countersunk screws.
The engine looks a bit different now, I'll try to get some pictures up in a couple of days. We only got home from Egypt yesterday lunchtime, so I'm busy with other things.
Thanks,Steve, for putting me in touch with Matt

Jim.

I just went into the garage to take some more pictures. Memory full. I'll have to do some housekeeping!
I checked the bas, the crankshaft has only screws fixing the base, forgot to check how many screws that has. It it clear from your pictures that mine is the same engine, I'll have to work out how to arrange the carb and exhaust. I'm trying to fix my Lucas MA1 magneto, it's rewound but no spark.
I'm busy at the moment fitting a DRO and power feed to my chinese milling machine so that will all have to wait.
At least I now know what I have, thanks to yo both for the info.

Jim..

Good morning Jim, looks like we both have the same engine, with regard to the ports I would say that the angled port at the base of the barrel is the exhaust, simply because that is how it is arranged on mine. and the amount of carbon buildup and the fact the previous owner had it running would point to that being the correct setup. I have not touched mine yet, other than to tip some diesel down the plughole to unstick the rings/piston... hopefully will get a moment to look at it over the Christmas works shutdown. Nice little engine though, and I very much doubt there are two the same!!! Will be interested to see pictures of how your restoration is coming on, might spur me into action. Good luck, Matt

Yes, indeed, I did not expect to see another. Steve and others on the stinfo forum spent a lot of time trying to identify it, eventually being convinced that it was a P3 but that did not explain the unfinished castings. The W2 looks much more convincing.
I'll get some photos done to show you what I've done up to now.
Have fun,

Jim.

Right, let's try to upload some pics from photo bucket:



My W2 December 2011



My W2 The carb fixing



My W2 side view



My W2 the flywheel fixing



My W2 the other side of the carb



My W2 the cylinder head nuts and water outlet



My W2 the lower water inlet



My W2 The Lucas MA1 carb (in work)


I hope the titles come through with the photos!
They didn't, I had to edit them in manually. Surely there is a better App than this (it can't be worse!)
Anyway, I hope you like the picture and that they are of some help to you, Matt. Any comments would be most welcome.

Jim.

Jim

Jim,

Just in case you had any lingering doubts, that is definitely a W2.

It appears you have got the carb and exhaust transposed. Not sure if it would run this way round? You would have to turn the piston round. I cant remember at the moment which is the right way for the inlet, step or slope? No doubt Roland or Steve will be along with the right answers. A lot depends on the port positions and the position of the transfer port. Looks to me like thats on the other side. That lovely adaptor could still be used to link into the silencer if it has to be the other way round!

Shame about the cap screws, surely studs and nuts would fit?

Mark

Hi, Mark, Yes I am convinced. In fact, during earlier discussions, we were fairly sure it was a W2 but an accepted expert said it was a P3. Yup, I'll have to turn the piston round but that's no big deal.
The adapter came with it, which is why I set it up that way.
Why shame? I love them and no there's no way of using nuts unles I do a load of machining on the cylinder and flange.
Hope you like the engine,

Jim.

The port arrangements on the W2 are not clear to me and there is no guarantee the previous owners put the piston in the right way. I've owned and seen many Petter Ms incorrectly assembled.
Normally the slow ramp goes to the exhaust and the steep step to the transfer port.
It would be enlightening to see pics of the piston and underside of the barrel. is the piston skirt sculpted?

cheers
Roland - recovering from the Mexican two-step!

I don't have time to dismantle it at the moment but I seem to remember that the piston skirt is plain. I don't actually remember cast iron piston skirts which were sculpted (I guess you mean shaped to fit the curve of the crank webs? The webs in this engine are plain rectangular blocks.)

What's the Mexican Two-Step? Something like the curse of the Pharaohs (which I had in Egypt last week!)?

Jim.

Very similar I imagine!
Sculpted is perhaps a misleading choice of words. I meant cut-outs for port timing.

cheers
Roland

I really don't remember,m Richard, if so, that would a clue!

Jim.

Well its a personal thing I guess, cap screws work just fine and may well have been available then, but I have yet to see a genuine engine using them and looking at the others in this thread, both use studs and nuts. Although its not clear, I would have thought some new pattern Whitworth or thin wall brass exhaust manifold nuts would have fitted. The latter would go very well with your brass dome nuts.
As for the engine, yes its a lovely thing and I will look forward to seeing the results.

Mark

Hi, Mark.
Yes, the head studs and carb studs are 3/8" BSF, all the cap screws are also 3/8" BSF, I was tempted to use metric ones, living as I do in Luxembourg,but originality got the better of me on that. If I can pluck up the courage to set up the cylinder on the Chinese mill I've just bought and machine it correctly to make room for studs and nuts (if I find suitable milling cutters). Since I'm busy installing DROs on the 3 axes of the mill, that will have to wait.
I have a lovely brass exhaust on my Stuart R3C and something similar would look nice on the W2

Jim.