Amnco Hired Man 2 1/4 Hp Questions.

Discussion in 'Help Wanted' started by pikeymikey, May 25, 2007.

  1. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Hi John

    Since I have swapped the paraffin valve for the petrol one, I no longer have petrol leaking out of the mixer. I couldn’t see anything wrong with either valve but the one from the paraffin side offered more resistance to lift the ball when blowing through it.
    Any way, it seems to have done the trick and I got the engine running for the first time last night. I now can see that the crankshaft is bent so I will have to see if I can get it straightened.
    Does anyone know if this can be done successfully?

  2. RobinH

    RobinH New Member

    Hi mike

    I have a article from the web that covers restoration of a hired man and mentions crank straightening. If you let me have your email I will forward you a copy. Can't find the web page anymore so I can't post a link.

    I have a similar problem to you with the mixer. Mine leaks paraffin when the valve is turned off. I assumed the seating must be damaged. I did not expect the ball valve could make any difference. I will have to investigate further.

  3. campingstoveman

    campingstoveman Active Member


    to reseat a ball there are two ways, get another similar sized ball and then either give the ball a sharp tap in its seat or get some lapping paste, fine, and use with the new ball to recut the seat. Wash clean afterwards.

    Martin P
  4. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Hi all

    Just when things were looking up, having had my 2 1/4 hp Hired Man running for the first time in my ownership (thanks to Dan for his help)
    I set about removing the bent Crankshaft tonight only to find an ugly scene in the big end cap! :?
    It looks to me that the b/e shells have spun at some time and the inside of the cap resembles a ploughed field! There appears to be 2 locating pegs in the cap and 2 corresponding holes in the back of the shell brg, containing 2 sheared dowel pegs. Is this correct as I can’t see the pegs in a parts illustration. As the engine did not knock and the b/e felt ok I am not too fussed about crank shaft journal condition as it looks as if it will respond to a polish, but I am concerned about the pegs. Does the shell in the con rod have a locator? Can b/e shells be obtained as a spare part or are they molded as with the mains?

    I have added some pictures to the Public Gallery / User Albums /pikeymikey.


  5. RobinH

    RobinH New Member


    Big end shells can be obtained from for about $25. I have used this company for spares and found them excellent.

  6. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Hi back again.

    I have had the crank straightened and want to have a go at setting it up this weekend time permiting. As mentioned before one of the main caps needs the drilling for the grease cup reworking,can the bearing shells be removed from the cap without damaging the shell,how is the bearing located in the cap? Is it held in the same way as the big end shells by a peg on the back of the shell? I can get the shell to move but it wont come out. Any offers please.

  7. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    You described the inside of the cap as "like a ploughed field". If its really that bad then standard shells may not fit well and you will certainly get poor heat transference. That is very bad for whitemetal doing any sort of work.
    The normal solution in such cases is to cast the new bearing in situ having first carefully tinned the rod.
    Normally bearings are seperate and can be carefully removed. However you will come across the odd one treated as above and then they won't.

  8. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member


    The big end con rod and cap resemble a ploughd field, but the mains are good and its from 1 of the main caps i am trying to remove the shell from.I cant get it to budge, so it will have to stay in for the rework to the grease cup drilling.As for the big end, i plan to purchase a new pair of shells from hitnmiss in the states and see how they fit after a light clean up of the conrod.Given that the engine will not be run under load, and even then not for long periods,is the heat transference a big issue?
    I guess if the new big end shells are as loose as a goose in the rod then i will have to come up with a plan B!
    Has anyone had any expirience of hitnmiss and shipping costs?

  9. TangyeDan

    TangyeDan Active Member

    They may look bad compared to a typical automotive or industrial engine, but it is a 1920s American engine - it will have run quite happily for the last 80+ years with no attention - my first option would be to stick it back together with some decent thick grease in the bearings and see how it goes. If it for occasional rally running under no load it will be fine with a bit of slop in everything as long as you keep plenty of grease in there.

    If all else fails hitnmiss are a good bunch, particularly considering the 2$=£1 situation. A friend got a set of International M bearings recently within a week of ordering. It's worth the cost of a phone call to talk to them about exactly what you need.


  10. We've had two orders from Hitnmiss in the last year and postage costs are basicly what it costs them.
    On the second parcel the sting was VAT and the Royal Mail rip off of £8 for collecting it. Even then it was still better than buying the bits in this country. Got a set of Wico EK cio;s and lead out for about £30, along with other items.

    Its worth ring them as their web site is not secure for financal transactions.


    Andy M
  11. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    I think half my problem here is I have got too used to working with modern high tech tier 3 all singing all dancing big engines that require everything to be bob on or you have problems. If I can adjust my thinking to that of a 1920's poorly equiped but resoucefull engineer i will probably get by just fine. :lol: A parts order for hitnmiss is growing by the day!

    Is anyone taking an Amanco to Weeting or Wood Green rallys next month, as i would like to gain inspiration from looking at a live one.

  12. miley_bob

    miley_bob Member

    I wouldnt have thought you would have a problem coming across an amanco. There always seems to be at least one at almost every rally. Most big rallies boast quite a selection of amanco engines.
  13. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Hi All

    I have finally reached a stage where i am happy with the crankshaft, which was bent in 2 places. After being relieved of £40 by a local engine reman company to straighten it, it came back pretty much the same as the day they collected it!
    There followed my own delicate procedures involving a 4 pound copper hammer and a dial gauge with the crank slung between 2 bits of wood on my patio slabs. The end result is minimal run out measured at the flywheel rims, so I’m well pleased.
    While I am waiting for parts to turn up from Hit N Miss in the states, has any one got any hints for setting up the crank bearings, i.e. the shimming of?

    The main shells are in good order as removed,so minimal if any blue and scrape required. What's the basic requirement for bearing clearance? Is it no lift and no load, I assume clearance is required to allow the grease to get around the journal?
    As I have taken the bend out of the shaft, the shims that were fitted to the mains are now incorrect as these were set to allow for the bend so i have aquired some suitable material to cut new shims.

    Any pointers please gents?

  14. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    Grease does need a larger running clearance. If you aim for 0.001" per inch of journal dia. plus 0.002"-0.003" that should be about right.

  15. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Thanks for that reply Roland.

    The parts have now arrived from hit n miss in the states, so I have my weekend planed out for getting the engine back together. (Unless her indoors has other ideas)
    I can definatly recommend the service provided by Ed at hit n miss, and the exchange rate is definatly worth taking advantage of at the moment.
    Got myself a newly cast belt pulley, a set of big end shells and some other bits and bobs.

    While I was waiting for the parts to turn up I got fidgety and couldn’t help purchasing a Petter M 3hp of around 1927 vintage, it has some lift in the mains and the guy I brought it from has given me your name Roland as a possible source of replacement bearings. Is it possible that you can supply these Roland?

  16. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    Its possible though I am rather busy (and, having seen the IF Winter schedule , likely to get busier :).
    I will need a good micrometer measurement (NOT a caliper figure which was what the seller offered me) of the main journals.
    If the journals are oval or tapered more than 0.0005" (and I bet they are) you'll need to get the crank reground ("minimum to clean"- journals need not be equal) first. If you have to get it reground then the oil throwers will need tweaking to fit. Often forgotten; then they spin and groove the crank!
    If the crank needs regrinding but is already down to the flywheel bore dia. then.......... :-(

    Contact me direct when ready

  17. admin

    admin New Member

    petterscrap wrote:
    First job is to tidy the workshop, seems to be in a mess.......

  18. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    The polluter pays...;-)
  19. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Thanks for the info Roland.
    I think id better get the Hired Man back together before i tackle the Petter or i will end up with bits all over the place,so it will be some time off yet. A possible house move will also put the spanner in the works with the tinkering.
    Lets see how it goes and i may give you a shout in the future.

  20. pikeymikey

    pikeymikey New Member

    Hi All

    Anyone got any big end cap shims for a 2 1/4 hp hiredman?



Share This Page