Need some advice. A local friend has had this engine for some time, in a kit of parts. We are trying to fit the camshaft but can't find any markings for meshing the gear drive from crankshaft to the camshaft. I have downloaded the handbook from I.F and the index says page 5 has details for fitting the crankshaft. Unfortunately pages 5 & 6 appear to be missing from the downloaded handbook. Do we have to mesh these gears by reference to the valve timing or should these gears be marked with their meshing teeth. Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks Ewan
Many thanks Roland, I do in fact have both these pages from the manual I downloaded from I.F ( 64 pages in total ) Yours are somewhat clearer. The download is missing pages 5 & 6 which, from the index refer to installing the crankshaft. I can't believe that the gears should not be marked for the meshing position. We can work back from your pictures but the side shaft is a heavy brute and may well have to be fitted more than once to achieve the correct position. Would you be kind enough to let me know ,if you have pages 5 &6, if they are relevant to my problem. Nice to hear from you Best Regards Ewan
Excellent Roland, We have been looking for timing marks on the gears. The top of your page 5 shows a mark on the camshaft and a corresponding one on the bearing housing, with the big end balance weights hanging vertically. That is very helpful, will remember your further comment when we try to time it finally. I'm sure you have written numerous books on Black Art !! Great help as always Regards Ewan
Next problem. Does anyone have any idea where one might buy 4 off 7/8 in x 6 in B.S.W bolts needed to fix the outrigger bearing to it's base. Tapped holes so stuck with B.S.W. I have found 7/8 in studding and nuts as a back stop . Any thoughts appreciated. Many thanks Ewan
I would suggest Williams Brothers in Sheffield, they still stock a fair range of imperial nuts and bolts etc. they may well post stuff out as well as deliver. malcolm
Thanks Malcolm, Have already gone down the studding route. Not cheap and had to go to Suffolk to collect it, 100mile round trip. Regards Ewan
21 quid a yard on ebay delivered free! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/273165910777 For reference I use a guy on ebay who makes studs etc for very reasonable money. Search David Colwill Engineering. Dan
Thanks all for the advice. I paid £20-60 for 3ft + 70p ea for nuts from Suffolk Fasteners Ipswich, Combined it with visiting step daughter and grand kids who live in Suffolk. Brace yourselves for the next issue!! Cheers Ewan
Evening all, Next issue, some advice on testing the starting air bottle.. It is stamped 1200 psi and dated 1925 about 4ft long with domed ends. Is it likely to be cast iron or wrought steel? I'm proposing to fill it with water and test to 600 or 700psi. That would be twice the working pressure. Is this too much? Any ideas where we can find a fitting for the outlet of the wheel valve . It is a wheel valve with what appears to be just over 2in dia parallel thread and looks like a flat face to take a gasket joint on it's face. Thanks Ewan
If your bottle is stamped 1200 psi you would need to test it well in excess of that so can I assume you meant 120 psi !!!! re material cast iron is good in compression but I doubt it would stand up to pressure. Martin P
1200psi could well be a test rating rather than working pressure. 120psi might be a little low to start a big springer, but my 30hp Ruston will start on 60psi so it might be ok. What does the manual say? Hydraulic testing is done to 1.5xworking pressure, so pump it to 180 if 120 is correct. If you plan to take it out in public you'll need it inspected and insured. There's plenty of inspectors around these days, so if in doubt speak to one. I'd be very surprised if you got charged for advice over the phone. Dazzla
Thanks Martin & Dazzla for your response. The bottle is definitely stamped 1200 psi which as you suggest is probably it's original test pressure. We have no idea what the internal condition is like and I don't fancy trying to remove the valve to be able to look inside. Bear in mind it is nearly 100 yrs old. The handbook refers to low pressure of 250 psi and high pressure of 400 psi. The low pressure cylinder is 10 cu ft but does not state the volume for the high pressure cylinder. These pressures are quoted for normal starting. I don't even know for sure if this is the Blackstone supplied cylinder but it was definitely part of the original installation. Interesting your comment on your 30 hp Ruston so will try initially on 150psi workshop compressor . It's bl---y heavy , two of us can just lift it so there is some metal in it. Plan to try and test it to 600 psi, we will see how tired it is. Does it have to hold the test pressure for any period of time? Thanks Ewan
1200psi or more likely a working pressure of 600 psi would suggest its original use was to supply blast air to an air-injection engine. cheers Roland
1,5xWP for 2o minutes is the norm. And remember the valve and connecting pipework needs to be tested too. The air tank on the Ruston is about 6' talk and 2' 6" diameter, the gauges are redlined at 200psi. The tank for my 21hp Tangye is much smaller, about 3' talk and 20" diameter, working pressure is 300psi, so higher pressure = lower volume. The Tangye will start on 100psi, but it's a real knack and you have to wind the speed up for about a dozen revolutions, and that gobbles up the air in the tank. On 300 one hit of the valve and it's away. The air tanks supplied with Blackstone-engined Aveling DX rollers were about the size of a modern nitrogen bottle. I think they worked at 300psi too. Maybe someone can confirm that. The engines were 18hp if memory serves me right. Dazzla
As Roland says, sounds like a bottle from an air blast engine. We would be VERY happy to swop it for one of a number of start bottles we have here, several that were tested 18 months ago and in good order with valves etc, all tested with a WP of 250psi. We are short bottles for the big air blast Allen from Little Hay, have hopefully sorted the injection bottles but need a decent size start bottle P