Hartop M

Discussion in 'Help Wanted' started by matth, Sep 29, 2013.

  1. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Like the plan! Everyone raves over Hopper Cooling but TBH Tank cooled is just as good and with a fire extinguisher you can make it so it doesn't throw water everywhere. Did look at casting some Hoppers but the price was astro! You could look into getting some large box section say 200mm square and make a hopper from that.
     
  2. matth

    matth New Member

    I hate tank cooling with a passion!, the box section idea is pretty clever, the current one is very thin and the join in the seams is right on where it mounts on the side of the engine which is just plain stupid, and the whole thing is liberally smeared with various fillers, silicone , chemical metal etc, and it still leaks like hell, I will keep an eye out for a suitable sized container that could go on there as a hopper, or I was thinking of cutting the whole side with the join and the hole that's been really hacked out to let the water through, out, and welding a whole new section in there, and then fit it to the engine between 2 steel plates and gaskets.
     
  3. matth

    matth New Member

    Ive uploaded the drawings that Ive done to work to, I only get my lunch breaks to do this stuff so I like to have drawings to work to so I don't waste any precious time, everything is in metric as most of our tooling at work is, as are the graduations on the mill, I am going to do all the threads for the mag coupling etc as M6 for now to get it done and see if it works then redo it all a bigger whitworth size if its worth me buying a tap etc...

    I am just wondering if I might be better off re drilling the pulley holes in the flywheel out to take 3/8 whitworth studs or maybe bigger, I think the ones that are on there are 1/4 if that, and I don't know if I trust them holding a heavy old pulley on, still need to look at the very mangled keyway on it but I just want to get it running first!

    The ones for the mag bracket are at work but ill put them up when I get them back.

    Apologies for my lack of straight lines, couldn't find the ruler :D
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  4. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    B****y Hell Matt what do you plan to drive with it! Its only 1.25 HP. Those bolt sizes have never given any trouble in fact drilling out too oversize might weaken what maybe a poor casting, Hobkirks never did produce good castings and in fact Hartops had to source cylinders from Coventry because castings were so poor.
    Everything else looks fine but you wont be tapping the leather cush drive, in fact you wont be drilling it either at least not with much success. A punch is the only tool to use. 1 inch for centre hole and a suitable size for clearance on whatever fixing screws you use.
     
  5. matth

    matth New Member

    That was the deliberate mistake :D , I wont be tapping the leather disc :oops: :oops:

    It will drive a H1 pump and a Fullwood vacuum pump if its up to it, it should be OK, it seemed to have a fair bit of power for a small engine when I had it running, it used to open up on the govenors etc quite well when you put a bit of load on it
     
  6. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    The H1 will be virtually no load unless you have a tap on the outlet screwed down and wouldn't have thought the Fullwood would be too bad. Having said that I have a compressor set and that engine boiled with the compressor working. Took the valves out and its fine now, So may need that cooling tank after all.
     
  7. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Pics of a fabbed Hopper. Extra at the bottom gives you nothing as the water is dead and cannot circulate, extra height though would be good if you can accommodate it.

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  8. matth

    matth New Member

    That looks allrite! the one that's on there certainly looks about the right size for it, can you tell me why I don't have the 2 holes in the flywheel like all the others seem to?

    They are a nice little engine and mines really growing on me, but they are not very well made are they!
     
  9. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Its the age of the engine. Look closely at the flywheel face and you will see where the holes have been filled in. Not so many made like this.
    They are what they are, a cheap small engine for the home engineer. A Hartop was less than half the price of a Lister D type, even cheaper if bought in kit form.
     
  10. matth

    matth New Member

    Another thing Ive noticed, on that green engine the pushrod is at an angle, while mine points straight up, the carb is very similar but not the same as mine, I assume the one on that green one is what its meant to be like?
     
  11. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Yep because someone welded that side of the rocker back on square rather than at an angle as the other half is. Breaks are common again due to crap castings. Carb is not original the one on the left below is.

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  12. matth

    matth New Member

    Ah mine isn't too far off then, its only the inlet that is a bit different on mine
     
  13. matth

    matth New Member

    I went to see a friend of mine today and came back with a nice big chunky ali flat belt pulley, so just a case of whacking it on the rotary table and drilling the 3 holes now, sounds easier!
     
  14. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    That's externally, internally it could be completely different but it obviously does the job and that's all it needs to do.
    Its just fussy buggers like me that need it to be right!
    This one I think is an early type and is made from a good alloy, later ones were monkey metal and most have age related fatigue cracks that have survived. Many have not!

    Ah you beat me to a posting. I'm relating to the carb above.

    Good news on the pulley then :)
     
  15. matth

    matth New Member

    it is all very pitted and battered but seemed to work ok when I had the engine running briefly

    Im not sure what make it is but it has the sort of spigot that slides on the engine rather than bolts and is held with a jubilee clip type thing
     
  16. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    The carb is most definitely an AMAL, most likely off a motorbike with the tickler float chamber lid and sunflower choke/air intake. BSA Bantam possibly?
     
  17. matth

    matth New Member

    Ah is it, your leather you sent me arrived today so cheers for that, if you PM me your address I will probably send your bracket on Saturday or tomorrow, ill let you know what the postage costs, cheers
     
  18. highrange

    highrange Member

    Like this one ? (Which is a Bantam carb ...125cc D1, I think)
    http://www.classiccycles.org/mediac/450 ... ffe417.JPG
     
  19. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Very similar, except Matts one doesn't increase in size towards the stub fitting, which is why I put a question mark to it. Unless the early Bantam used a smaller diameter inlet stub, then its off something else.

    BTW Matt you should already have my address. Glad to hear the other parcel got there OK.

    Cheers

    Mark
     
  20. matth

    matth New Member

    Oh yeah I think I do actually :D

    I am going to make the coupling out of Ali, as I can get the milling done much quicker, I managed to buy a 50cm length of 3'' ali for £12 with postage on ebay, which isn't bad!
     

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