New to Lister D advice please

Discussion in 'Help Wanted' started by Bobpump, Apr 14, 2011.

  1. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi, first engine a Lister D 1937 in nice condition but I have a few questions.
    On top of float chamber you have the press bit for fuel flow but also a treaded screw bit can you tell me what this is four & is it to make any adjustments?
    The carb mixture wheel I can find the optimum position for it but should you adjust this ie: lean/rich alongside speed adjustment on govenor, mine favours towards the starting position, will cause plug to foul?

    Will start first or second go runs for anything between 20/50 mins then stops & either very reluctant to start or refuses altogether.
    Have changed spark plug, check fuel...any advice please.
    Thanks for your time.

    Bob
     
  2. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    If you examine that small bolt you'll see that it goes through a cut in the floatchamber lid. Doing up the bolt squeezes the thread and locks the lid in place. Best left alone.

    If its correct it matters not where it is. Lean will give popping and very rich black smoke. Between the two is a sweet spot. if its right then after a run the plug will be a light brown. Neither black nor white.

    I suggest checking the fuel feed for crud. That mean the pipe, the tap and the fuel filter which goes between tap and tank. If you are sure its continuing to get fuel, then it might be the mag breaking down as it gets warm. Is there a spark when it refuses to start?

    Does it restart after a period of waiting?

    hth
    Roland
     
  3. matth

    matth New Member

    I had the same trouble with my lister D when I first got it going , it turned out to be the coil breaking down
     
  4. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi,
    Thanks for taking the time to reply. When I first got engine (6 weeks ago) the petrol tank leaked so getting that fixed I have had all pipes off & now back on, I can confirm flow from tank to filter up to float chamber then engine runs but how do you check that petrol gets to carb & onwards should it stop runnibg? To-day was first time starting after cleaning, painting etc & it ran about 40min....stopped....started again easy ran....10min....started again & ran well for over an hour then stopped & would not start. Can you "flood" them same as on older cars?
    Do i test for spark by plug out & crank (again same as car)?
    When running it sound good solid beat & starting has lots of compression.
    Do you mean Magneto when you say coil? how to test Mag.
    Sorry lots of questions thanks for peoples time.
     
  5. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    When its stops, unsrew the float chamber lid and see if there is fuel there.
    What plug are you using?

    cheers
    Roland
     
  6. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi Roland,
    As suggested checked float chanber & half full certainly not full, today even tried topping up chamber with fuel from container then lid back on & turn over...nothing. It splutters & puffs from exhaust but doesnt get going. Sitting here fighting off heart attack following all morning battle with the LD.
    Have noticed the hole on side of carb nearest to exhaust weeps fuel during all this???
    Also on mine pipe from tank via tap to brass container fixed to lower part of body which has a metal gause filter in it then up to float chamber but some engines & if you look at buying new pipe just has run in a loop direct from tank tap to float...is this normal.

    Plug is NGK AB-6

    Thanks again.
    Bob.
     
  7. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    If you have a multi-meter check the resistance from the HT lead end to the mag body. It should be 3k-5k ohms. Its not a totally reliable test but is a guide to mag coil condition.
    It also sounds like it would be useful to check the carb jet. Unscrew the needle compeletly and remove the float chamber then blow up the jet with air-line or foot pump.

    hth
    Roland
     
  8. matth

    matth New Member

    When mine decided it didnt want to go it always used to pop back through the carb, I had the mag done on mine but it was very fussy on spark plugs, NGKs didnt last 5 minutes, get some good old 8-COMS or Lodges, they work much better
     
  9. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Thanks to all who took the time to reply. I think I have established a weak spark & after the engine warms up "no" spark so I will get the Magneto looked at.
    As a matter of interest I phoned one advertiser in Stationary magazine to be quoted between £300 & £400 for overhaul...Magneto would be worth more that the engine!!!
     
  10. petternut

    petternut Administrator

  11. matth

    matth New Member

    It wasnt Donald Days by any chance, my friend sent 2 RS1's there for his 2 Ruston PTs and they were £480 each! :eek:
     
  12. marshall-man

    marshall-man New Member

    bobpump where about are you from ? might be some one close to you
     
  13. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi,
    Not sure of company name (perhaps best not to say) box advert in Staionary Mag.
    I am in Hemel Hempstead Hertfordshire.
    Advised that to get 5/8 BSP fittings need to go to Hydraulic or air tool company??
    Bob.
     
  14. campingstoveman

    campingstoveman Active Member

    Bob,

    Not wishing to disbelieve but are you sure its 5/8 BSP.

    Martin P
     
  15. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi Martin P,
    Got myself a bit mixed up as I have had two posting on the forum, 1x about my Lister D another about the Lister H1 pump I also want to get going.

    On the pump the lower inlet pipe has about 4inch Iron pipe allready fitted I need to be able to get to Copper. 3/4 too big 1/2 just too small (no idea about threads) some replies on the other posting have suggested that the pipe is 5/8 BSP which is not available from local plumbers merchants a relative who works for British Gas tells me they no longer carry Iron fittings & suggests trying at hydraulic or Compressed air supplies.
    Any help welcome & still not sure if 5/8th correct. I have no engineering experience.

    Cheers
    bob.
     
  16. campingstoveman

    campingstoveman Active Member

    Bob,

    Can you measure inside the bore of the pipe, this will give us a chance to confirm the size. as others have said BSP threads are determined by the hole in the pipe not the OD.
    I live in Bedfordshire so not so far away, do you belong to a club, as the Beds & Bucks is not to far from you as well.

    Martin P
     
  17. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi Martin,
    As soon as I bought engine I went to Beds & Bucks Club meet in March missed April, met some of the guys at Enstone but at that time was unaware of the problem otherwise I would have had a good look at others.
    The measurement of the pipes ID is 1/2 inch. Hope this helps & thanks for taking an interest for me.

    Bob.
     
  18. TangyeDan

    TangyeDan Active Member

    Sounds like it is 1/2" BSP. Fittings are available cheaply from BES: http://www.bes.co.uk/ search for Malleable Iron Fittings.

    IMHO copper pipe is for domestic plumbing, old water pumps should be done as they were originally in iron pipe, with screwed fittings.

    Dan
     
  19. campingstoveman

    campingstoveman Active Member

    Bob,

    If the id of the bore is plain and not threaded then its 1/2 BSP if there is a thread inside then its more like 1/4 BSP but will check my books for you in morning.

    Are you a B&BSEC Member, I'm the newsletter editor for the club.

    Martin P

    p.s. I see I was beaten by the resident waffler, nice lad but................
     
  20. Bobpump

    Bobpump New Member

    Hi,
    I sent a letter to Chairman Roy for membership his reply was to see Secretary/Treasurer John at next meeting.
    Will you be attanding?
    No inner thread its just threaded pipe sticking out.

    Bob.
     

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