Stuart 2 stroke

Discussion in 'Identification' started by marshall, Nov 9, 2011.

  1. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    Yes, indeed, I did not expect to see another. Steve and others on the stinfo forum spent a lot of time trying to identify it, eventually being convinced that it was a P3 but that did not explain the unfinished castings. The W2 looks much more convincing.
    I'll get some photos done to show you what I've done up to now.
    Have fun,

    Jim.
     
  2. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    Right, let's try to upload some pics from photo bucket:


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    My W2 December 2011


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    My W2 The carb fixing


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    My W2 side view


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    My W2 the flywheel fixing


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    My W2 the other side of the carb


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    My W2 the cylinder head nuts and water outlet


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    My W2 the lower water inlet


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    My W2 The Lucas MA1 carb (in work)


    I hope the titles come through with the photos!
    They didn't, I had to edit them in manually. Surely there is a better App than this (it can't be worse!)
    Anyway, I hope you like the picture and that they are of some help to you, Matt. Any comments would be most welcome.

    Jim.

    Jim
     
  3. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Jim,

    Just in case you had any lingering doubts, that is definitely a W2.

    It appears you have got the carb and exhaust transposed. Not sure if it would run this way round? You would have to turn the piston round. I cant remember at the moment which is the right way for the inlet, step or slope? No doubt Roland or Steve will be along with the right answers. A lot depends on the port positions and the position of the transfer port. Looks to me like thats on the other side. That lovely adaptor could still be used to link into the silencer if it has to be the other way round!

    Shame about the cap screws, surely studs and nuts would fit?

    Mark
     
  4. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    Hi, Mark, Yes I am convinced. In fact, during earlier discussions, we were fairly sure it was a W2 but an accepted expert said it was a P3. Yup, I'll have to turn the piston round but that's no big deal.
    The adapter came with it, which is why I set it up that way.
    Why shame? I love them and no there's no way of using nuts unles I do a load of machining on the cylinder and flange.
    Hope you like the engine,

    Jim.
     
  5. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    The port arrangements on the W2 are not clear to me and there is no guarantee the previous owners put the piston in the right way. I've owned and seen many Petter Ms incorrectly assembled.
    Normally the slow ramp goes to the exhaust and the steep step to the transfer port.
    It would be enlightening to see pics of the piston and underside of the barrel. is the piston skirt sculpted?

    cheers
    Roland - recovering from the Mexican two-step!
     
  6. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    I don't have time to dismantle it at the moment but I seem to remember that the piston skirt is plain. I don't actually remember cast iron piston skirts which were sculpted (I guess you mean shaped to fit the curve of the crank webs? The webs in this engine are plain rectangular blocks.)

    What's the Mexican Two-Step? Something like the curse of the Pharaohs (which I had in Egypt last week!)?

    Jim.
     
  7. petternut

    petternut Administrator

    Very similar I imagine!
    Sculpted is perhaps a misleading choice of words. I meant cut-outs for port timing.

    cheers
    Roland
     
  8. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    I really don't remember,m Richard, if so, that would a clue!

    Jim.
     
  9. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    Well its a personal thing I guess, cap screws work just fine and may well have been available then, but I have yet to see a genuine engine using them and looking at the others in this thread, both use studs and nuts. Although its not clear, I would have thought some new pattern Whitworth or thin wall brass exhaust manifold nuts would have fitted. The latter would go very well with your brass dome nuts.
    As for the engine, yes its a lovely thing and I will look forward to seeing the results.

    Mark
     
  10. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    Hi, Mark.
    Yes, the head studs and carb studs are 3/8" BSF, all the cap screws are also 3/8" BSF, I was tempted to use metric ones, living as I do in Luxembourg,but originality got the better of me on that. If I can pluck up the courage to set up the cylinder on the Chinese mill I've just bought and machine it correctly to make room for studs and nuts (if I find suitable milling cutters). Since I'm busy installing DROs on the 3 axes of the mill, that will have to wait.
    I have a lovely brass exhaust on my Stuart R3C and something similar would look nice on the W2

    Jim.
     
  11. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    I have to decide on what colour to paint it (it's much tattier than it looks in the photos). I quite like the existing but I don't think that was a final colour. They would all have been different, I suppose?

    Jim.
     
  12. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    I think the grey looks just fine and a welcome change from green.
    It seems interesting that cap screws are the only thing that fits the cylinder. Was there any evidence that the engine had run? or was this a model engineers nightmare and quietly put under the bench!

    Mark
     
  13. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    I think it may have been the latter, Mark.I would have expected the castings to anticipate the studs but they did not. Even the cap screws touch the outer wall of the cylinder and are a tight fit, so a bit of milling might not come amiss.
    Yes, I like the grey, too, I might get it copied and use that.

    Jim.
     
  14. Skankin_giant

    Skankin_giant Well-Known Member

    Look like its coming on well, I have not seen a W2 (or W4) in the metal, looks smaller then a P3, very nice indeed, I must get another Stuart stroker, see what turns up.

    I would love one of the earlier ones like the C Set 300W

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    But I dont think I will find one as long as I have a hole in my backside, I had a nice N Type, but created a lot a noise from the magneto drive chain (even though it was a inverted tooth design), I think the Marine version would have been nicer with its direct drive magneto, also as it was an N1 the throttle was very fiddly! keep looking at it and think should I have sold it, as its a lovely looking thing.


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    Im keeping a eye our for a R2 or R3 for a mate of mine if anyone hears of anything.

    Cheers Steve
     
  15. Numpty1

    Numpty1 Member

    I'd like a W4 as a comparison with the Hartop H type but like your C Set, probably rocking horse manure! I dont think even the renowned Brian Sharp or Charles Hudson ever had any of these.

    Dream On.

    Mark
     
  16. Skankin_giant

    Skankin_giant Well-Known Member


    Yes I would say more so then the Air Cooled K and the Diesel, we all need a dream :roll: I managed to get a Flattie.

    Still quite fancy another flywheel magneto R3, or the R2 with the Genset expansion chamber cover/exhaust outlet.

    Cheers Steve
     
  17. smenkhare

    smenkhare New Member

    Well, I've had it apart and it is quite clear that I had inversed the admission and exhaust ports. The skirt of the piston is plain and I have had to turn it round. It's interesting that there are no small end clips, just a bronze pad on the end of the pin to prevent wear on the cylinder. I managed to fix the cylinder in my rotary table and mill off some metal which was preventing the use of studs and nuts, I will now fit the studs and make brass nuts to match my dome nuts.
    Next good news, the magneto is now producing a long blue spark (it was just a problem with the points).
    So, once I've got all the bits in place, I shall be testing it (maybe after Christmas).
    Seasons greetings to all those who have helped me on the forum and to all engine lovers whereve they may be!

    Jim.
     
  18. highrange

    highrange Member

    May be teaching Granny to suck eggs, but having turned the piston round, could the ring ends possibly jam in a port? (Just thinking back to dire warnings in manuals for old 2-stroke bikes/scooters from my youth)
    Pleased to hear you've got a healthy spark now - hope all goes well when you attempt to start it.
    Huw
     
  19. marshall

    marshall New Member

    Evening all, glad to hear Jim's engine is making good progress, mine is still soaking gently but might get some TLC over the Christmas shutdown with some luck... On the question of colour, it is a rather nice maroon, over grey primer, but unfortunately is covered with a layer of red oxide over everything! It will be going back maroon, as it does make a nice change from green... Having looked at the pictures of the others in this thread, no sign of governors on them? Is this a reason for the timing case, and the somewhat homemade magneto mounting? I believe Stuart used a combined belt driven governor/carburettor on some engines, would this have been available for the W2?

    Matt G
     
  20. picklesquirt

    picklesquirt Member

    Hi Jim
    I pretty green on engines but matters electrical are in my blood. It scares me when people talk of long sparks from ignition systems. Magnetos and ignition coils for that matter generate high voltages by rapidly changing magetic flux. Normally that high voltage is clamped or limited by the spark plug breaking over. If the spark plug is not connectd or the gap is very large there is nowhere for that energy to go so it will find somewhere else, unfortunately of it's own choice. If you are lucky it may be dissipated in leaky insulation if not it may well break down the insulation leading to degradation or catastropic failure.
    I personally would not turn a magneto without a plug connected or the HT lead shorted to the mag case.
    Please excuse if I am telling you how to suck eggs.
    Regards
    Ewan
     

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